Shillong and the Khasi Hills: A First-Timer's Route Guide
What to do in Shillong beyond the tourist stops — the food scene, local music, Umiam Lake and how to use the city as a base for the rest of Meghalaya.
What to do in Shillong beyond the tourist stops — the food scene, local music, Umiam Lake and how to use the city as a base for the rest of Meghalaya.
Shillong as a base
Shillong sits at 1,500 m on the Shillong Plateau and has a character distinct from most Indian hill towns: a long rock-music tradition, a Khasi food scene worth exploring, and a colonial-era core around Ward's Lake and Police Bazar. Most visitors transit through it too quickly.
Spend two nights. Walk Bara Bazar in the morning for local produce and bamboo crafts. Eat jadoh (red rice cooked in pork broth) and smoked pork at a local restaurant. In the evening, Shillong's live-music venues are genuine — the city has produced some of India's best rock musicians.
Umiam Lake and Elephant Falls
Umiam Lake, 17 km north of Shillong, is a large reservoir in a green bowl of hills — peaceful early in the morning before the tour buses arrive. Kayaks and rowing boats are available for hire. The drive along the NH6 with the lake below is one of the better approaches into the city.
Elephant Falls, 3 km from the centre, is a three-tier waterfall on a short forest walk — accessible enough to combine with a morning Shillong walk without losing the whole day.
Day trips from Shillong
Cherrapunji is 55 km (a day trip), Mawlynnong is 80 km (a long day trip or overnight), and the Dawkī river is 95 km (3 hours). A hired car from Police Bazar gives the most flexibility for these distances.
If you plan the Nongriat root-bridge overnight, arrange with the village homestay in advance — there are only a few rooms and the path down is too steep and slippery to attempt in the dark without a guide.
Common questions
Frequently asked questions
Is Shillong cold? What should I pack?
It sits at 1,500 m, so it is cool year-round. December to February temperatures drop to 5–10°C at night. Carry a light fleece or jacket even in summer. Rain gear is useful most of the year.
What food should I try in Shillong?
Jadoh (red rice with pork), doh-khlieh (pork salad with onion), tungrymbai (fermented soybean stew), and smoked pork with akhuni. Start with jadoh from a market stall — it is the everyday staple and it is excellent.
